Tips for Finding the Ideal Trench Coat that Flatters Your Body and Elevates Your Style
- katehelyarstyling
- Mar 24, 2024
- 7 min read
We've all seen the seemingly perfect social media influencer or celebrity looking effortlessly chic in a trench coat, but I have to admit that until recently I felt it was an item I couldn't wear. At UK size 14 and a fading hourglass, I always found them too stiff, too busy and when I opted for looser less structured styles, I was totally swamped and rather unwelcomely appeared to have put on several pounds over night!
A trench coat is an investment purchase, right? Well it certainly should be in this day and age and ideally an item such as a coat should remain in our wardrobes for several years to come and therefore deserves some serious consideration at the outset. There are literally hundreds of permutations on the market and knowing which to choose for your body shape and proportions can be an absolute minefield. Step away from the fear and indecision, I'm here to give you a few pointers to help you find a coat that flatters your body shape and makes you feel sharp, chic and put together.
To begin at the beginning, this blog came about because I saw a post from a fellow stylist about the current trench coat trend and it prompted me to dig out my 10 year old M&S coat. Apart from it being a size too small (ahem .. maybe two, 10 years really does pass by in a flash) I realised there were several things about it that didn't flatter my shape and to be fair probably never did. So to business ... what are the things to think about? Broadly speaking they fall into the following categories:
Single or double breasted & collar
Lapels & gun flaps
Shoulder and sleeve style - Raglan, drop or set in?
Epaulettes
Button colour, size and placement
Belt and cut
Length & fabric
Single or Double Breasted
Double breasted coats and jackets have been everywhere now for several years and they look stunning on slim and tall ladies but do present something of a challenge for those who are an hour glass, apple, strawberry or pear shape. There is no getting away from the fact that the added fabric in the mid-section adds bulk to the tummy area and if you intend to fasten it, which you would probably want to do with a coat, this could be quite unflattering. As a UK size 14 with a large bust I would generally choose a single breasted blazer or coat but I think the trench is an exception. The reason for this is mainly to do with the collar. Single breasted coats tend to have a shirt style collar whereas double breasted have a revere collar. The first creates an expanse of fabric over the torso which can look a little like a shelf on a large chest, whereas the revere makes a beautiful 'V' shaped opening, which divides the torso and is very flattering for those with a larger bust and those with a broader torso. That said the single breasted coat looks more relaxed and has an air of laid back Parisian glamour about it. Perfect for those who are regular or petite in height and slim in build.
SINGLE BREASTED | DOUBLE BREASTED |
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lapels, GUN & STORM FLAPS
Moving on from the collar, if you have opted for a double breasted jacket, the next element to consider is the lapels. Do you opt for a slim lapel or a wider version? As I have a balanced body shape with curve, meaning my shoulders and hips are virtually the same width and I have a slightly defined waist, I want to avoid the coat unbalancing me, so I would choose a slim lapel. If you are a more pear shape, meaning that your shoulders are narrower than your hips, you may want to opt for a relatively wider lapel, thereby accentuating the width of the upper torso, with the aim of balancing the silhouette. Bear in mind that any added detail in this area will increase the look of the bust.
Gun Flaps are the pieces of fabric, or piece if there is only one, that extend over the front of the shoulder and are usually accompanied by a button to hold them in place. So called because that is where the butt of a shotgun would rest, they are not really a functional element of the coat anymore. Even if you do go shooting, there are better options these days. This is simply design frippery and unless you are tall with a small bust, the fewer the better in my view. Most styles seem to have dispensed with this element or at least limited it to one side, that said I am not adversed to a discreet single flap with a tonal button.
A storm flap is in my book, what makes a trench a trench. It is the piece of fabric which extends from the shoulders at the back and more common on traditional double breasted styles. Those with very broad shoulders or plus size ladies, may wish to avoid this extra fuss in order to create a more streamlined silhouette.
Lapels | GUN FLAPS | STORM FLAP |
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Shoulder/sleeve style - Raglan, drop or set in?
The biggest difference in coat style comes from the way in which the sleeve is attached. Simply changing this to suit your body shape can make a huge improvement in fit. Briefly a raglan sleeve is one joined to the neckline and has a diagonal seam extending from the neck band to the armpit. A set-in sleeve is the traditional jacket shoulder and sleeve combination, where the sleeve head is attached to the point of the shoulder. A drop shoulder is where the seam attaching the sleeve to the shoulder is dropped down the top of the arm. If you are pear shaped with small shoulders, the set-in sleeve is the one for you. If you are an hourglass shape and curvy, the set-in sleeve is the one for you. If you have sloped shoulders or you feel that the top of your arm looks larger than you wish, the set-in sleeve is the one for you. Whilst raglan and drop sleeve look effortlessly cool on some ladies, they really suit those with a very defined top line. For everyone else they tend to add even more curve to the shoulder, having the knock on effect of reducing the waist line. Creating more structure in the shoulder by having a set-in sleeve, clearly defining the division between shoulder and sleeve, makes the upper arm and waist appear slimmer. If you have very sloping shoulders and find that the structured shoulder doesn't sit well, consider adding a shoulder pad. I know this is counter intuitive for some but it really does work!
RAGLAN | SET-IN | DROP |
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Epaulettes
An element related to the shoulder/sleeve style is the epaulette. These are the little tabs of fabric that sit on the shoulder and usually have a button. They are great for creating a structured shoulder and balancing the silhouette, but only if they end at the shoulder point. Great for pear shaped ladies as they can be used to balance a larger hip.
Epaulettes that extend down the top of the arm tend to increase the curve of the shoulder and may not be flattering on those with a large bust, sloping shoulders or a broader upper arm. In these instances opt for a short neat epaulette instead. Conversely if you have very straight shoulders a more laid back longer epaulette extending down the arm would suit you better or indeed no epaulette at all. If you are a strawberry shape, that is broader on the shoulder than the hip, you may also wish to avoid the epaulette all together.
OVERHANGING EPAULETTE | SHORT EPAULETTE |
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Button colour, size and placement
This is very simple. Those 5ft 8 and over and those who are slimmer can really have as many buttons as they wish and in any colour. Those who are regular in height or petite and have more curve may wish to choose a style with fewer, smaller buttons, in a less contrasting and more tonal colour. The reason for this is that a grid of buttons effectively creates horizontal lines across the body which, to the eye, has a shortening effect. If your goal is to lengthen and slim the body, go light on the buttons. Whereas, if your goal is to shorten your body or add width, because you are tall or very slim, choose contrasting larger buttons.
CONTRASTING BUTTON | TONAL BUTTON |
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belt & cut
Although the usual trench style is fairly straight cut, there are some beautiful, full skirted styles on the market. These look stunning on smaller hipped ladies wanting to balance a broader shoulder, but also on slim waisted pear shaped ladies, who find the straight cut of a traditional trench too restrictive or even on an hourglass shape, where you want to enhance the smaller waist. Most double breasted trench coats come with belt. I have noticed this is less so with single breasted styles. My personal preference is for a belt without a buckle, as I just find this gets in the way. However, if you wish to draw attention to your waist area a buckle is a must for you. If you are more inclined to disguise your tummy or draw attention away from it, opt for a less fussy belt, without a buckle or any fancy detail stitching or loops, D rings and so on. You may even wish to tie the belt at the back of the coat to create a more streamlined effect.
PROMINENT BELT | FULL SKIRT |
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length & fabric
Any horizontal line you create across your body has a shortening effect so if you intend to wear your trench with a skirt, you should aim for a coat hem that ends at the same level as your skirt or longer. If you have a shorter coat you are effectively shortening the look of your body with the additional horizontal line. The same applies to cropped trousers and culottes. A longer line coat will have a lengthening and therefore slimming effect on the body shape.
A last word about fabric. Generally speaking the more curve you have the less rigid a fabric the better. Particularly curvy ladies will find that a very rigid fabric is uncomfortable to wear. Better to opt for a lighter weight fabric and possibly even with a small elastane content.
THE ONE I CHOSE | THE ONE I NEARLY CHOSE |
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I hope you have enjoyed this blog as much as I have enjoyed putting it together. Do get in touch on social media to let me know whether you found this helpful. Click the button below to shop my edit.
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